Dracaena from A to Z


The plant dracaena came to our homes from tropical and subtropical woods of Southern Asia and Africa. By this general name we usually plant both dracaena and cordelia in rooms and mistaken in shops selling them often as the same plant. Both have narrow, extended leaves of green color or bright leaved. It’s easy to distinguish these plant by their roots: the dracaena doesn’t have rhizomes, with yellow long-term roots, veins on leaves are located in parallel and converge by the ends of leaves; cordelia differs by forming of underground thicken stalks – rhizomes and underground germs with kidneys from which new plants grow. It has white annual roots, which die off to the spring, but simultaneously grow new ones. Both dracaena and cordelia a called false palm trees for their leafless trunk with a bunch of leaves on a top.

Dracaena blossoms in nature. The dracaena’s blossom is actually a bush with fine white flowers, but the dracaena is chosen for room cultivation not as a blossoming but as an original single plant with interesting leaves used in ornament of halls or drawing rooms.

Species of dracaena.

Totally there are known more than a hundred dracaena species in a nature, but as a room flower only few of them can be used, among them dracaena draco – dragon tree is very popular. In room conditions this dracaena grows up to 1,5 m. At good illumination of edge of leaves will redden, otherwise leaves will have green painting. At damage of a bark the red juice is allocated.

Dracaena marginata is another kind dracaena which is widely used. This plant grows up to 3 meters and has up to 70 cm length in leaves, it is of green color or has a red strip on edge of leaves at an initial kind. There is dracaena marginata with three-colored leaf: green, yellow and red is three-color Dracaena marginata. There is also Dracaena marginata with almost red leaves, with only middle thin green and yellow strips on a leaf. A following kind – is dracaena deremensis. Usually its leaf is 50 cm and is painted green, but in this kind there is one with single or with several white strips on leaves growing up to 1,5 meters.

Dracaena fragrans has wide long leaves, little bit wavy on edges. There are kinds with a wide yellow strip in the middle of a leaf or with yellow fringe on edges of a leaf. The only dracaena with not long but oval leaves is dracaena godseffiana. The height of this plant is up to 70 cm. It has shining leaves, covered by light spots. There are much more other species, but those were the most often planted kinds in rooms.

Dracaena LEAVING.

This plant is not demanding especially the species of Dracaena marginata, dragon tree, dracaena godseffiana. The majority dracaena is better growing in a half-shade and do not love too bright sun. In the winter the desirable temperature is 15-12 degrees, but the some species of dracaena (look above) can stand even lower temperature.

All dracaena demand accurate watering. The soil in a pot should not dry up, but you don’t have to fill in a plant either. Dracaena is a plant of a damp climate, therefore it is necessary to spray them regularly, and the pot can be put on damp peat or on a wet pebble. Only dracaena godseffiana and marginata endure well a dry air.

Look carefully at dracaena leaves, if their tips are turning yellow it means, that humidity is not enough. You should spray the plant and prevent dryings earthen lump. Other reason of this phenomenon can be too cold air and drafts. If bottom leaves slowly turn yellow it is a natural process of dying off and there is no reason to worry about.

You should use fertilizers once in two weeks in the summer and once a month in the winter. Usually dracaena is replaced in the spring once in two years. Old plants should be replaced only when the pot became too small. For such plants only the top layer should be update. The soil for dracaena can be bought in a shop or made yourself of the turfen ground, the sheet ground, a little bit of humus and sand. Dracaena with correspondent care will grow without problems.


Dracaena duplicate in several ways. On the one hand, you can simply cut a top with leaves’ bunch off, and then put it in the water, putting some sand on the bottom. Take it in a warm place. Otherwise this top shoot can be processed with fito hormones and  implanted in a damp sand, using the bottom heating. It is possible to implant shanks which are cut from a stalk. The length of shanks should be 5-7 cm It is possible to implant a top dracaena, not cutting off from a stalk (air leads). In this case you should make a cut on a trunk a little below leaves to half of trunk, then put the match into a place of a cut so that the cut could break up. After that take a small pot. On one side you should cut out a hole or simply cut a pot in lengthways, fix a pot on a trunk of dracaena in a place of a cut and fill it with friable ground which should be often watered.

Instead of an additional pot it is possible to use a wet moss. Usually, the  plant form the roots within a month and the plant is separated from mother trunk. If you continue to water an old plant on the place of the cut new shanks will start to. The plant so can grow further or, the trunk left after division of a new plant you can use for the crocks.


The dracaena has rare diseases if its leaving is correct.The leaves get is correctseeses  dry if the watering is not enough, due direct solar beams burn there can appear light dry spots on the leaves. In this case you should regulate the watering and spraying, or to find a suitable place for your plant. As to the wreckers the dracaena is more often stroked by the Aspidiotus (brown  plaques on the bottom party of a leaf) or by the web tick (a small bug which lives on the bottom half of a leaf). The top part of the stroked leaf gets covered by yellow spots, and there is a web between the leaves.

You can remove the Aspidiotus using the soap water and process the plant with an insecticide afterwards. If there’s a strong damage the wrecker processing should take place everyhe omey ar beameh, in the case of direct solar beames burn  week. You can use insecticide spraying to struggle with the web tick as well. But it is necessary to repeat, that the dracaena won’t be stoked at regularly spraying and rubdown of leaves with a wet duster.

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